Day 20

The long stretch begins.

We drove the first stretch for a long morning.  The mountains gave way to the scrubby hills of Southeastern Colorado and Northeastern New Mexico.  It is unbelievably hot.   The temperature rose to 92 degrees before noon.  The ride was bittersweet as we climbed over Raton pass.  This pass signifies leaving the mountains and the Journey home to Texas.  It will soon be over.

We headed down across New MExico and stopped at Capulin Volcano National MOnument.  It is an extinct volcano that is now a park and makes for a good stopping point.  We attended a Ranger Talk and hiked to the bottom of the volcano.  The kids got some nice Junior Ranger patches for their troubles.  It was very hot but a nice break from the drive.

We continued along the plains of North Texas and into the Amarillo campsite.  It is windy and dusty.  We get set up and the kids go for a swim at the campground pool.

Tomorrow is the final segment.

Day 19

July 4th, the pinnacle of American summer.

We usually try to do something fun for the 4th while traveling, whether it be a local parade or celebration at a historical site.  We did a little research before we arrived at the shady campground.  I got up early and packed the trailer to leave.  We found out that there was a July 4th celebration at Fort Fetterman in Douglas Wyoming.  Fort Fetterman is an Old West fort that was an important stop on the Pony Express as well as the Western Migration.  The celebration was free and even included a pancake breakfast.  We arrived on the grounds and were greeted by a woman dressed in period Pony Express costume on horseback.  we continued onto the grounds and got in line for breakfast.  The breakfast was quite good and was pancakes eggs and hamsteaks.  The children were ecstatic as they filled their bellies with the free pancakes.

Afterward we toured the grounds and did many interactive activities with the kids.  Wagon rides, period children's games, and educational discussions with reeneactors were the activities of the day.  It was interesting to see the faces of the local folks, they seemed to be farmer types with weathered faces and thick working hands.  All enjoying the 4th and history.   With smiles on their faces, the children reboarded the endeavor and we headed South to Colorado Springs.

The Holliday eased the usual city traffic and we made good time.  We arrived at the campground and got set up.  I went to get some bbq while Amy did one last load of laundry.  Afterward, we packed a picnic and headed to downtown Manitou Springs for fireworks.  We ate at a playground but the kids seemed more interested in playing.  Little Nate found a little girl he was having fun chasing.  There was also an old time arcade there with plenty of games and little rides I remember from childhood.  The type of rides that could never be made again because of lawyers and lawsuits.  The two youngest rode the electric horses and tractors with huge smiles and laughter.  We then treated them to ice cream and staked out a spot at the local park.   The ice cream was good but the firework display was nothing special.  We had taken a shuttle bus downtown but we decided to walk the mile back to the campground.  The children were tired and fell asleep easily with a bedtime story.

Day 18

Time to head home.

We got up bright and early and cooked a large breakfast.  The kids of course got up early as well, excited to play with their new friends and their cousins.  We performed the usual prep for the ship and I rechecked her systems and all seems fine.  After breakfast the Officers of the Endeavor and the Corps of Discovery visited for a while.  We decided to head down to the South park exit together.

We got underway and made the drive to the entrance where we would take a family I true in front of the Yellowstone sign.  I looked in horror at literally 2 miles of traffic waiting to get into the park.  Yes, it is a good tie to be headed South.  The cousins did not want to leave each other but a long driving day was ahead.  I chose a more Southern route toward Casper Wyoming, so that we could trace some of the route of the old wagon trains.  Our route would carry us along various portions of the California, Oregon, and Mormon trails.  A long scenic drive south out of the mountains took us to a tiny town in central Wyoming. The children were hungry for lunch and we really don't like to get fast food.  We noticed a little Thai shop in the middle of town.  Amy went in an ordered us lunch and struck up a conversation with the lady working.  She was from Thailand and was in the US for the summer to help her daughter with the restaurant.  She was very interested to hear of our travels.

After lunch we traveled along various points on the trails.  We decided to stop at a spot called Independence Rock.  This is a large granite monolith in the middle of the prairie.  Its significance was that if a Wagon train could reach this spot by July 4th, they would likely make it over the mountains before winter.   The settlers also scrawled names and messages into the rock that are still viewable today.  We stopped and began walking around the rock.  A gentleman walking around stopped us and said "be careful around that side, there is a mean badger that is chasing people around."  About that time, we heard a shriek as a lady and her husband came jogging around the side. Apparently, this badger had chased them snarling and growling.  Of course the children wanted to go and see the badger and have it chase them.  Of course I refused, being chased by an angry badger was not in the cards for me.  This predicament was a first.  They settled on climbing the rock.  I do not care much for heights anymore, but the children had no problem scrambling all the way to the top.

We loaded up and continued the hour drive into Casper.  The campground was supposed to be a quaint place made from an old fort on a river.  The reality was quite different however.  There were rows of permanent trailer dwellers, many flying confederate flags and staring.  Oops.  It was too late to continue on, so we dropped the trailer and I holed up in there.  I figure I will just sleep and get up early in the morning and leave.  Not ideal.

Day 17

We again slept in trying to kick this respiratory affliction.  Still coughing and hacking we decided to go for a shorter hike.  We stopped by Old Faithful and let the kids watch the famous geyser erupt.  While we waited, they also used the time to finish their Junior ranger booklets.  The geyser erupted slightly late and we joined the throngs of people trying to edit the parking lot.

We decided on a short hike up to a Lake, called Harlequin trail.  On the way, we stopped at a Ranger station and the kids turned in their books and received their badges.  They were pleased as their Ranger hats appear to be coated in badges from all over the country.  The hike wasn't bad at all, and we took the time to relax and enjoy the sights.  We headed back to the trail head and called it an early day, heading back to the campground after stopping to walk the boardwalk at one of the geothermal features.

We arrived early at camp, started a fire and made hot dogs.  The weather had cleared from days previous and it turned out to be a fantastic evening.  The children made friends with some kids at a neighboring camp and they played all evening.  I love to see kids play like I remember doing as a kid.  The cousins arrived back at camp and joined the fray. The relaxing evening was topped off with s'mores and campfire scary stories.

I realized why I have become so uncomfortable here.  The rat race has manifest itself here and it was not always this way here.  Just today, we have watched, people speeding and passing others on blind corners, moving no parking barricades to park, walking dogs off leash.  Basically the selfish self absorbed type behavior I flee to escape.  It saddened me.  Such greatness to behold here, but they do not, cannot see it.

Tomorrow we pull anchor and begin the journey home.

Day 16

The Officers of the Endeavor continue to suffer from declining health.

We all awoke late today as Amy and I were feeling worse and thought rest might help.  We took care of some chores and met up with the Corps of Discovery to conduct a days hike.  We decided upon a hike around the Canyon area of Yellowstone.  It is a huge Canyon area with a large Waterfall that is described as the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone.  We hiked along the rim at first.  Amy and I were feeling pretty rough.  The hacking cough has drained us of energy the past few days.  Our chests hurt and we experience coughing fits frequently.  Our stamina for the hike wasn't there.  The Endeavors crew broke off and took a different route back.  It was longer than expected and ridden with mosquitos but did pass through some interesting geothermal features.  The end of the trail was in a different spot than the vehicle so I left the others and hikes another mile to the car.  At this point the coughing got worse and I began to cough up some bloody sputum.  Whatever this affliction is, it seems to be nasty.  

Spent for the day, we decided to drive around looking for wildlife.  Of particular interest was the Lamar Valley in the Northeast part of the park.  Wolves can often be sighted here.  Scattered thunderstorms were present all day and I suspect this hampered our wildlife viewing efforts.  We saw no wolves or bears in this area.  Exhausted and I'll we headed back to the campsite.  Hopefully we turn the corner tomorrow.

Day 15

Weather in the mountains is a strange unpredictable thing.

We decided to get up early and make the drive down to the Grand Tetons.  Grand Teton National Park borders Yellowstone.  It contains an iconic group of mountain peaks and some great views. There is a particular hike we like to do when we are around this area called the Jenny Lake trail.  It is a great day hike with many different points to turn around depending on how long you want to hike.  A boat can even be taken part of the way if you wish.  The area however was under construction and the crowds have also seemed to make their way down there as well.

Since we were early, parking was no problem.  We found a spot and stopped by the visitor center to get Junior Ranger books.  Amy and I had been dealing with this chest cold and seems to have sapped us of some energy.  We walked the 2.2 mile to the far side of the lake.  Amy seemed to get sicker, began looking pale and I'll.  I suggested she take the boat back with our daughter and the baby.  I decided to continue on to a spot called inspiration point with the two oldest boys.  Together we formed an expeditionary force and continued on the steep trail to this area.  As we climbed the trail, a rolling thunderstorm bellowed in, dumping rain and lightning in the area.  Myself and the crew quickly found a large tree to seek shelter underneath.  I had two ponchos and we quickly covered the crew in them to keep them dry.  The steep trail is granite and quite slippery when wet.  We decided to press on since we were so close to our goal.  The crew showed no fear and performed exceptionally under the conditions.  One slippery rock could send one of us over the edge and tumbling to certain death.  One last switchback and we made it.  Inspiration point is a rocky cliff that overlooks the lake with the mountain range to your back. We stopped here for a while and ate in silence.  I looked back at the canyon and noticed a huge sheet of rain coming.  We quickly packed up and headed down.  Interestingly enough, Grant was wearing a shirt from Barbados.  A random gentleman on the trip noticed and asked him if he was "Bajan". He told them that my family was.  The gentleman, like myself, had parents from Barbados and we quickly exchanged pleasantries.  Small World.  We headed down to the boat dock and took the boat back across where we linked up with the rest of the crew.

We stopped at a Visitor Center on the way home for the children to finish their books.  The badges they earned were centennial special edition badges and made of wood.  We headed back to camp where I got dinner started and lit a fire.  Suddenly we heard the playful laughter and screams of the crew of the Corps of Discovery.  The crews joined together as only children can and laughed and played and had a generally good time.

Tomorrow I suspect we shall conduct a less strenuous hike as my cough and ill feelings seem to be getting worse.

Day 14

It appears Yellowstone has become more of an amusement park.  The true wilderness has died with the turn South

We let the children sleep in this morning as we figured they needed it.  Truthfully it was nice for us adults to sleep in as well.  We made the usual preparations to get the Endeavor underway.  The road to Yellowstone was short and followed the Gallatin river all the way to the city of West Yellowstone, which borders the park.  We decided that with the amount of laundry we had to do, we could find a laundromat and knock it out before we got into the park.  We found one just off the main drag.  Amy took the kids to a nearby park while I knocked out 5 loads of laundry.  With 4 kids, we sure travel heavy.  While that was going, I cleaned and swept the trailer.  I made the mistake of checking on the news while I waited.  I was bombarded with stories of a bombing of an airport in Turkey, and a mother who murdered her teenage daughters.  Mistake.  Perhaps I will turn North again after all.   I prefer the honesty of the wilderness.

We left the town and drove into the park.  I am not sure what I was expecting, as this is my eighth visit to Yellowstone, but the place is a zoo.  I do not remember this sort of crowding.  Immediately I am confronted with the behaviors of the rat race that I tried to escape.  Unsafe driving, tailgating, and throngs of people vying for parking spots.  We stopped at the Old Faithful visitor center for the children to get their Junior Ranger books.  They apparently charge for them here and the whole Old Faithful area was chaos.  Horns blaring, throngs of people loud and boisterous.  Amy and I discussed altering course for a new destination.  We both agreed we should have made the Left turn North.

We found our campsite among 480 others in the campground.  Luckily the family in the closest spot has many children, and ours seem to get along fine with them.  We ate chicken stew for supper and decided to take a drive in search of wildlife. I traveled to an area of the park that is usually good for that purpose.  Sightings of buffalo gave way to a rare sight.  A traffic jam directed our attention to a large grizzly bear slowly and purposely eating the carcass of a dead buffalo.  Despite the crowd, it was a pretty cool site to see.  Interesting how habituated the Bears have become that the crowd of people watching did not seem to bother it.  On the way back to the campsite, we out another good look at a black bear foraging for food along the road way.  Despite the Endeavor's Officers disdain for the spectacle Yellowstone has become, the crew seem to enjoy the wildlife sightings.

It has started to rain lightly, we will attempt a hike in the Tetons tomorrow.

Day 13

It saddened me some to leave Glacier.  Mostly, because I knew it marked the beginning of the end of the adventure, but also because it gave me a taste of that wild, that Wonderlust that always calls.  That pull away from traditional life and toward freedom.

Nonetheless, we got up early and prepared the Endeavor for the journey South.  Systems and fasteners, checked and all seemed sound.  We decided to stop at the Ranger station on the way out.  Harris had finished his Junior Ranger book, and Grant and Alex had finished a special Junior Ranger assignment that gave them a special badge for the centennial celebration of the National Park Service.  All were pleased with their accomplishments.

It was very slow going headed South to Missoula.  There is traffic like I have not seen before in Montana.  It was interesting to see various bumper stickers reading things like "Montana Native", or "Montana is full, I heard North Dakota is nice."  It seems the "discovery" of Montana by outsiders has the locals none too happy.  The traffic surely ads to the frustration.  I decided to stop at the Costco in Missoula to procure a generator.  I also got other various supplies for the trip.  Missoula seemed to suffer from the traffic affliction as well.  While I performed that task, I dropped the rest of the crew in down town Missoula.  There is a park with an old restored Carousel open for all to ride.  The children had been given tickets for a free ride at the campsite on the way up.  They were elated.  They could not stop talking about how much fun they had at the park. It's incredible how children can get so much joy from such simple things.

Amy drove the rest of the way, as I was tired and fell asleep in the Navigators chair.  We again, traveled through the rolling foothills of Montana.  We dialed up a Podcast we are fond of on NPR.  Story Corps.  It is the stories of otherwise normal people and their stories.  This episode featured a soldier who was the only surviving member of his Platoon, after a road side bomb struck in Iraq.  It was memorable because you could feel the anguish and guilt in his voice at being the survivor.  He discussed his draw toward suicide.  I cannot imagine such a hell, and I hope he is able to make sense of it all and press forward with his life.  It is a task easier said than done I am sure. We headed South along the Gallatin river in Montana and arrived at our campground.  It is a nice smaller campground on the banks of the Gallatin river.  There is some road noise and many mosquitos, but a relaxing spot nonetheless.  The kids bickered as they were tired from the day before. To our joy, they had an open site with electrical hookups.  The Endeavor could charge her battery banks and prepare for the next stop.  I will return the generator.  We ate supper and told campfire stories. The children are ready for bed indeed.

Tomorrow, the Endeavor plans to link with an Allied ship, piloted by Amy's brother and family, the Corps of Discovery.  The combined crew should have a world of a time in Yellowstone.

 Day 12

A long day it was.

We decided to try and make Ranger led hike at 0930.  It started at the visitor center near our campsite and was led by a youngish Ranger named Steve from Wisconsin.  We mostly discussed changes in the forest and various types of tree stands. We did get to see a large beaver swimming right past us as we discussed beaver lodges. I ended up carrying Harris for most of it.

We then got back in our cars and made the 1.5 hour drive over the pass to the East side of the park.  The hike we decided on was called Grinnell lake. It is about 3.5 miles each way and mostly flat, terminating in a wonderful lake with great views.  This is heavily traveled area for grizzly bears.  The children did ok.  I suspect the first hike tired them.  They did enjoy the suspension bridge that they got to cross over a rapidly flowing river.  We spent about 30 minutes at the lake.  They enjoyed drinking the lake water from this filtration straw that I bought.  We noticed that there was a group of people that had made their way to the lake from a tour boat.  I could see the kids were tired, so I decided to ask if we could have a one way ticket. This was no problem.  The problem was, I had parked the car at the trailhead, not the boat dock.  This meant I had to do the return hike by myself.  Not the best idea in grizzly country.  No worries,  I booked it back to the trail head, singing along the way, hoping to give warning to any bears that might be lurking along a blind switchback.  I only encountered one moose, who wasn't pleased with my presence, so I continued on my way.

I ended up beating the others back to the boat dock.  We piled into the car and made the drive back over the pass, stopping of rice cream along the way.  We made a stop at Logan pass again as the kids wanted to play in the snow.  We hiked halfway up and absorbed the view, while the children ran and rolled down the steep snowy hill.  To our delight the parking lot area was filled with Bighorn sheep as we got back down.  The kids were thrilled to see so many of them up close.  By the time we got back to the trailer it was 1030 PM, still daylight.

Tomorrow we steer the Endeavor back South

Day 11

I realized I might have screwed up in booking a campsite.  It occurred to me that the next 6 days of the trip have no electrical hookups.  This is really no big deal comfort wise other than the issue with running down the batteries.  Indeed the Endeavor has a battery bank that runs some essentials such as the water pump, and actuators for the fridge and water heater.  Once this run down, we will lose water, refrigeration and lighting.  This could be a real problem with 4 children.  I noticed that our campsite in Gallatin Montana does have some sites with electrical hookups.  The problem is that we booked a non electric and most of the electrical hookups are for walk up only.  The solution is to buy a small generator to charge the battery banks, so she does not encounter such a scenario.  I am not sure which I will do yet.  I must think on it.

We let the children sleep late in attempt to rejuvenate them for a new hike.  We decided on Avalanche Lake.  A hike of around 6 miles round trip.  It is a popular trail, so our late start gave rise to some parking difficulty as we were late to the party. The first part of the hike led us past a roaring snow melt river, the milky blue water washing the rocks clean and round.  The trail was quite muddy from the recent rain.  We continued to climb as it was mostly uphill.  The children only complained a little.  It was soon worth it.  The trail gave way to a meadow, which gave way to a very large snow melt lake, with the mountains towering behind it like a curtain only God could make.  It was majestic and raw and peaceful all at the same time.  The shore area was quite shallow and the children wasted no time in losing their shoes and socks and wading around. The water was ice cold, but they cared not.  They quickly made friends with a Swiss family and began playing with their children.  Amy and I took some time to take in the sights and relax, smiling at the sound of children's true laughter.  We decided to head back down the trail.  We called the children and listened to them making plans to meet up with the Swiss children.  It is always amazing to me how innocent children are, and the ease in which they interact with other children with no hate or pre-judgment.  We arrived back at the campsite fairly early, and decided to take a drive on that same dirt back road.  The improved weather improved our luck.  We witnessed a Golden Eagle in its nest feeding its young, a beaver swimming around its dam, and a mother bear with two cubs.  The children were especially thrilled with the baby bears as we watched them climb trees and play.

Tomorrow we hike in a bear infested area.

Day 10

We spent most of the day in Canada

It rained all night and was still quite cold and wet once we awoke.  We decided to change our previous plans to hike in the snow at Logan Pass, which is the highest point in the park.  The road to the pass, called "Going to the Sun Road" is known as one of the most scenic drives in North America.  It is narrow and winding with steep drop offs.  It can actually have snowstorms in conditions such as this.  We figured it would not be a pleasurable experience.

We drove around the park, which took a couple hours.  The border crossing into Canada was easy.  We proceeded into Alberta Canada and visited the Canadian side of the park.  It presented a different view of the Mountains that are equally as stunning.  We stopped at the visitor center and got some hiking suggestions.  We decided on a hike that was about 5 miles round trip and terminated in a nice mountain waterfall.  It was mostly uphill but the children, did fine.  There is something about the sound of running water that cleanses the soul.

On the way back to Montana, we took a different route.  This road traveled through an area with wild buffalo and stands of trees.  We noticed some movement on the side of the road and stopped to watch a fox trotting along, freshly killed ground squirrel hanging from his mouth.  We noticed some construction signs.  One in particular caught my eye.  It was a warning for frost heaves.  You see, up North the road can get so cold from the permafrost underneath it will actually buckle, making a course washboard in the asphalt.  They can be especially treacherous when hit at highway speeds.  The road to Alaska was littered with them, did may a damage to the Endeavor. I smiled at the memory. For a fleeting moment, I felt the pull North, the memory, sights and experiences of the day carried the memories into my consciousness.  I had the sinking feeling for a moment, that I was missing something, that wild Frontier there at my fingertips calling.  What if we just kept driving?  I wished I had the carefree spirit and enough Wanderlust to do such a thing.  Begrudgingly, we made the Right turn and steered the Endeavor back toward the border crossing.

The weather had cleared by this time and we decided to take the pass.  When we arrived on top, it was 42 degrees and windy.  Ah, but the kids had seen the snow.  Amy and I bundled up, fighting the stinging of our ears and let the kids have a couple snowball fights.  It must have been a snowy winter as the trail and boardwalk has yet to show itself.  We made our way down to the campsite where we had supper and attended a ranger program to finish out the evening.

Day 9

We woke up to cold rain.

Since it was a long day yesterday, we decided to let the kids sleep in.  Amy had gotten up early and decorated the trailer for Grants birthday.  He turns 10 today.  It is hard to believe we have been parents for a decade.  It's all a blur and I hope we are doing a good job.  Amy also made Grants requested breakfast of waffles wth strawberries and breakfast sandwiches.  Grant woke up with a big smile on his face and we ate.

We finally got on the road.  It was a nasty drive through some beautiful country.  The cold misty rain made for slick conditions and slow going.  We stopped in the town of Kalispell for lunch and some coffee.  A delicious latte was obtained from a local hipster staffed coffee establishment.  The fog obscured some magnificent views.  There has been some serious development since the last time we were through.  Perhaps Montana has been "discovered".

We arrived at our campsite on the West side of Glacier NP.  It reminded me of Seward Alaska with the fog and pines.  Grant requested to eat supper at a restaurant for his birthday.  We went to a place right outside the gates.  The food was OK but the kids enjoyed the experience. We headed back to the campsite and ha Pecan Pie an ice cream for birthday desert.  Grant opened his presents, which were a pocket knife and Pokemon cards.  He was thrilled with them.  We ate our fill and then took a drive on a back road through the park looking for bears.  We found no bear, but the road was treacherous.  We realized it was almost 10pm and headed home. It has gotten cold and we are going to bundle up and get to sleep.

I hope the weather clears tomorrow.

Day 8

Day 8

The cool mountain air led everyone to bundle up and sleep well as a result. We got up early and ate breakfast outdoors, listening to the sounds of various waterfowl as we ate.  We decided to make our way down to the lake and go for a morning hike before we left.

We turned away from the lake onto a trail that led back into the woods. It was noted to be a Nordic trail designed for winter time cross country skiing.  The hike was fantastic.  It was full of mountain flowers and had patched of meadows and trees, that coursed next to a mountain stream. The kids were thrilled with the multiple bridges and places to investigate the stream and the wildlife and plants it nourished.  We reached a turn around point and let the kids play.  I decided to go a bit further and the trail opened up to a lush meadow.  I found a tree stump and just sat and watched for a while.  The sound of nature filled my senses free of the noise pollution of civilization.  I watched a chipmunk work for a while, his hurried but purposeful movements amusing to watch.  Paying attention to my breathing, I felt many worries and stresses melt away.  I enjoyed this space for a while, then rejoined the crew to proceed back to the campsite and set course for Montana.

The drive out of the Bighorn Mountains ends up in a desert like valley that is fairly hot and desolate.  We made the turn North into Montana and found the desert giving way to lush pastures with a mountain backdrop.  It was a long drive, but relaxing as the scenery has a way of sending you deep into thought.

We arrived in Missoula late, but as we venture further North the daylight gets longer.  We noticed we had plenty of daylight left at 9:45PM.  I got the kids to bed as Amy made a grocery run. Tomorrow is Grants birthday and he has requested pecan pie instead of cake.  I will do some laundry shortly as after we leave here, we will be camping primitively in Glacier National park for several days.  The Endeavor seems to be holding up.

Day 7

I woke up and sipped by coffee at sunrise.  I again investigated the engine, and secretly hoped the problem was not terribly sinister.  I had done a little research in bed, and noticed a local car care and lube shop that had pretty good reviews.  There was not a lot to choose from in Cheyenne.  I made my way to the shop around 6 miles away and waited for it to open.  I left Amy and the kids at the campground to get the morning sorted out.

At opening an old man opened the door and greeted me, I assume he was the owner.  We made the usual small talk and explained the problem.  He said he was pretty sure that they could handle it and that the mechanic would be in shortly.  I sat in a chair and read the morning news.  Enter the mechanic.  I heard the rumble of a Harley and a youngish large man on a Harley breezed by.  He had a long pony tail in rubber bands and a bikers cut on.  I figured he would know what he was doing.  I went into the garage and introduced myself and told the story of the Endeavors powerplant.  He gave an understanding nod and went to work.  In 1 hour he returned and exclaimed he had found the problem.   We walked to the shop and he showed the me the issue.  There is a wire that feeds and auxiliary cooling fan in front of the radiator.  Over time this wire had rubbed against some metal and worn a hole in the insulation, thereby shorting the wire and blowing a fuse.  When the boiler happened it also ruined the radiator cap.  He had repaired the wire and fuse, and a new radiator cap was on the way.  The price for the diagnosis and repair was 100 dollars.   Well worth the price for the work.  The mechanic was worth his salt.  This Achilles heel type problem would have been a tough problem to find for most mechanics.

I paid the fee and headed back to the campground.  I noticed a Wal Mart with a fuel station.  I stopped to refuel but my credit card was rejected.  I went inside to find out what the deal was and all 3 credit cards and debit card were declined.  The lady gave me a look.  I went to another gas station and only one card worked.  I then began to worry someone had stolen my card info and caused a problem.  I called the credit card company and it turns out Wal Marts system was submitting the wrong security codes for each card and caused them to be frozen as it is suspicious activity.  I explained the situation and the cards were unfrozen.  I hate Wal Mart.

We then got on the road and headed up a desolate I 25 through Wyoming.  The engine ran  without problems.  We then began to climb a mountain pass into the Bighorn Mountains.  Our campsite was at a place called Siblley Lake.  We arrived to find a cheery camp host who directed us to our site.  The campsite was fantastic.  Quiet large spaces overlooked a beautiful Alpine lake.  There was a trail that led around the lake as well.  We got set up and went for an evening hike.  The children enjoyed wading in the water and climbing the log bridges across the streams that fed the lake.  We cooked corned beef and mashed potatoes for dinner and told campfire stories.

The day ended well.

Day 6

Day 6

The powerplant on the Endeavor failed today.

The day started easily enough.  We got a nice early start and headed down into Durango to dump the RV tanks and get some breakfast. The ride to Cheyenne courses over the Rockies and the Continental Divide.  This involved some spectacular scenery but also involves some harsh conditions for towing a heavy trailer.  There are long uphill grades and down hill driving that involves down shifting. The altitude also starves the motor for oxygen and really presses the limits of the vehicle.

The first part of the day went well.  We made it across the highest peak and stopped to make lunch at a park that had a scenic overlook.  It was very calm and cool.   "We are making really good time", I said out loud.  The last part of the crossing was some uphill driving and then a long downhill grade into Denver that required some engine braking.  We descended into Denver and to my horror I stared at a parking lot.  We were smack dab in the middle of rush hour traffic.  It was stop and go for many miles.  We also noticed that the Endeavors instruments showed the outside temperature to be 106 degrees.

After much grumbling and frustration, the traffic thinned.  I noticed that the temperature gauge was climbing.  I thought to myself, "It's probably just the stop and go traffic". Things did not improve.  As we coursed North, the engine began to sound louder and get hotter.  I did everything I could to keep her cool.  We coasted in neutral and gingerly limped in to a truck stop.  I opened the hood and noticed that there was coolant everywhere.  It appeared to be coming from the overflow hose.  This could represent a simple overheating episode, or a serious mechanical problem.  The other problem was that the Toyota motor requires a special coolant to be used.  This is not commonly available at a truck stop.  A quick Google search revealed an auto parts store that carried such a coolant.

We decided to risk it and attempt to limp to the store.  We set out and headed back across the highway and joined the road that would take us through Longmont Colorado and the store.  As I turned on to the road, I looked in horror as there was a line of traffic a mile long.  As the powerplant heated up steadily toward the red zone, I noticed a Wal Mart.  We quickly turned in the parking lot and parked.  I made a quick check at Wal Mart and noted no such special fluid.  Amy then came up with a great idea.  "What about Uber?"  she said.  Sure enough, a check of Uber revealed a driver 7 minutes away.  I dialed it in and sure enough a ice lady showed up and took me to the store.  The coolant was procured and I returned to open the radiator and find it almost empty.  I refilled it and off we went.

We made it to Cheyenne all seemingly OK.  We got to the campground and set up.  Amy fed the children while I got the trailer situated. The couple in the campsite next to us was on the way back from watching their son play in the College World Series.  I checked the coolant level in the motor and it was down just a bit.  I am still concerned about a leak or something more sinister.  I need to to do laundry as Cheyenne is our stop to take care of such things.  I plan on waking up early tomorrow and taking the ship in for a local mechanic to check and pressure test the cooling system.

Day 5

Day 5

In hindsight the hike was a mistake.  We decided to try something new and attempt a hike that we haven't done before.  It was called the Lower Hermosa Trail and was suggested on some websites as a good hike for families.  It started out well enough I suppose.  Two problems.  It was a mixed use trail, and it turned out to be a very hot day.  Mixed use means that you share the trail with dirt bikes , mountain bikes and horses.  This could prove sketchy with multiple children with low situational awareness.  The trail coursed along a gully, with not many views and it was dusty and muddy and smelled of cattle. We finally decided to turn around about three miles in and it got very hot.  The kids were troopers and made it back, but by the time we got back to the vehicle the temperature was 97 degrees.

Exhausted, we headed back to the trailer and had lunch and showered up.  It felt fantastic to wash the hot sweaty grime from our bodies.

A good friend from residency lives in Durango.  It is always fun to meet up with he and his family.  They invited us over for dinner and it was a great time.  They have a 5 year old son.  The kids made fast friends and they had a great time playing outside and just being kids.  We had dinner and drinks and enjoyed good company.  We ate on the back patio, which was lovely as soon as the sun started to fall and the breeze picked up.  It was great to laugh, and just share stories of living and life.  At one point Amy remarked on the quiet peacefulness of the neighborhood.  It then occurred to us what was missing.  There was no constant background hum from dozens of ac units.  The kids began to tire and we said our goodbyes and headed back to the campsite.

It was a good night.

Day 4

Today was our first real hiking day.  Everyone slept well and once the kid got up, I kicked them out of the trailer so they could go outside and have some adventure.  As kids will do, they made up some sort of tag type game and had a blast running around the woods.

The hike we chose was called spud lake trail.  We did it last year, but it is a great hike for kids and not terribly strenuous as we are still having some trouble with the altitude.  It is a wonderful trail that leads up a rocky trail to an alpine lake that is incredibly serene.  As it was Father's Day, the trail was fairly steady with other hikers.  We would pass each other and wish each other a Happy Father's Day.  We reached the top with only minimal complaints from the children.  The lake was flat and mirror-like and the sky blue

This was a perfect lake for thinking an meditating as it is fairly easy to find a spot away from people.  I took the opportunity as Amy captained the children as they took off their shoes and socks and frolicked in the lake that was not too cold.  I found a flat spot under some trees and cleared my head.

Many thoughts enveloped me. Where I'm going, where I've been, people that are important to me.  My thoughts then focused on purpose.  Have I made a difference in this world?  The way I'm put together I have to have a purpose to drive me.  It is difficult sometimes to find that purpose once the growing up part of life is over and the monotony of middle life sets in.  Thoughts of my work crept in.  I had some very tough cases over the past couple years.  Cases that haunt me from time to time.  I suppose I am very hard on myself about such things.  I do not however want to get to the point where I am not.  I think then it would be time to walk away.  I think at the end of the day it is the humanity in medicine that I am drawn to above all else.  You have just a few minutes to make that connection with people.  They are all people.  Once you learn that, the medicine comes after.  Maybe, it can't be learned.  I think the secret is that you must be present in that moment for your patients.  It's really very simple.  I think people can sense it.  I ran through my mind some positive cases over the past year.  One stuck out.  I took care of a woman who was stricken with cancer.  I had seen her several times over a year or so as issues can arise after hours in cancer patients that take them to the ER.  Over this time I had watched her decline as that evil that is cancer took its toll.  It also took its toll on family as that is a tough thing for even the strongest of family units to deal with.  I remember the last day that I took care of her.  The cancer had spread all over her body and she was declining rapidly.  I knew at this time, the fight part was over.  I could see it.  I reviewed her records and I could see that no one ever truly talked to this woman about what to expect.  She had been treated as her problem and not her person.  I went back and asked the woman "Has anyone talked to you about what is happening and what is going on with your body" ?  No one had.  I had a long talk about what was happening.  It was past time for treatment of a problem and the misery that goes along with it.  It was time for dignity and celebration of life.  I discussed hospice with her and what all that meant and what to expect, told her she didn't have to live in this way for what was left.  The patient and family all agreed, and we called a hospice company to the ER to get the process started.  It was as if a weight was lifted from her shoulders.  I crave the humanity and this was the most human thing I could do for this woman in that moment.  I have not seen her again.  I don't know if she is still alive, but I hope I was able to provide her with some aspect of dignity.  We all die.  This much is certain.  We can do so with dignity.

We hiked back down and drove into town for some sandwiches and groceries.  The kids played at a playground for a while and we then headed back to the campground.  For Father's Day, I requested red beans and rice and some fishing.  This went much better today and although we caught nothing we had a great time.  Nate has developed a fear of bears.  He believes a bear lives in the woods outside our campsite and repeatedly asks with a concerned look on his face whether the bear was going to come get him.

It was a good Father's Day.

Day 3

We decided to take an easy day today.  We figured it would provide some down time for the children after two long days of driving, and it would give us a bit of time to acclimatize to the altitude.  We decided to make the drive down into Durango to visit the farmers market.  We found a spot, parked and walked into the main downtown drag.  To our surprise, the streets were lined with custom and classic cars. It turns out they were having some sort of car show and it was fantastic.  They had all sorts of things from classic hot rods to doomsday vehicles made from old army 2 1/2 ton trucks.   The kids had a great time viewing the vehicles and walking about.  At the farmers market, they had a clown making balloon animals and of course the children had to get one.  There is a trail that travels along the Animus river here in Durango.  We took this about a mile away to the local fish hatchery where they also have a small wildlife museum.  We have visited here before, but the kids really enjoy it as they are allowed to touch many of the animal pelts and get close to the exhibits.  After lunch, we headed North toward Purgatory ski resort.  During the summer they open it for various activities like zip lining and the alpine slide.  The slide is essentially a mile long slide down one of the ski slopes that you ride down some sort of toboggan  with wheels in.  The kids had been begging to go for years and we decided to check it out.  The two younger kids had to ride with Amy and I, but it sure was fun.  It felt almost like a tiny bobsled.  The older two then went zip lining, which they claimed not to enjoy much. As children are apt to do, they began to try and negotiate how many rides they could go have on future visits.

We decided to spend the afternoon fishing at the lake at the campground.  We stopped at a store and bought licenses and the classic live worms and off we went.  It was actually still fairly hot but the kids were excited.  Grant reeled in a fish soon after starting.  A nice trout.  Things however quickly degenerated as the long nap free day caught up with the children and they began to bicker.  Dinner of campfire stew followed and then a campfire no marshmallows followed.  I have been fighting an upper respiratory infection that has me feeling wiped so we decided to get everyone inside and turn in early.  Hopefully tomorrow we will feel more refreshed.

Day 1 and 2

Day 1 an 2


Here I sit in the mountains of Colorado reopening the trip blog again.  Many things have changed over the past year.  Those familiar with my trip blogs know of my musings of life and direction.  These trips are often a time for myself and the family to regrouped ourselves in life and it's truths.  I often remark about the stress of my work and how easy it is to lose oneself and ones humanity in such work.  It is one of my biggest fears.  Luckily I was smart enough to realize it.  The company I have been with for ten years went through a merger and restructure.  The demands and stress became great.  In my competitive nature, I was determined to stick it out and somehow "change" things.  Such change was not possible, would never be possible.  In the process I began to do what I feared.  I began to lose myself in the work.  This happens slowly, one does not realize what is happening until those you trust around you draw attention to it.  It was as if I was thrown of the company ship with an anvil around my legs.  As the weight of that anvil drew me into the depths of the ocean, I struggled mightily to swim back up the the surface.  The anvil was too heavy.  Finally I realized the simple steps to take toward my mental freedom, drew my knife and cut myself free of this piece of iron that aimed to destroy who I was.  I resigned my position in May.  This in some ways felt like I was giving up, but that is the rub,  there is nothing left there for me.  Not really.

There is, of course, a new job.  There will always be new jobs.  This change however gave us the opportunity for true time off.  I could leave with the family for a longer period and make our way as far as Montana.  There is always that draw for me, the frontier, or what is left of it.  There is something about the raw open of the American West that draws me in like a beacon when I lose my way.  The mountains have a way of clearing the head and realigning thoughts.  You see the mountains are old and tell the truth.  Always.

The setup that started it all with the original Alaskan adventure still lives.  On this trip we will be meeting up with Amy's brother and his family in Yellowstone.  They too share similar ideas about adventure and living.  We decided to borrow an idea from them and name the rig. After all, most vessels that carry those in pursuit of adventure and exploration have a name.   After some thought we decided on the name The Endeavor.  This name was drawn from the flagship HMS Endeavor of the British Explorer Captain James Cook.  It seemed a fitting name for the beast that has carried us to the ends of North America.  As an aged ship she required some refitting.  Loose seams, insect nests, rusted bolts and many other problems had to be addressed.  Final preparations made her as road worthy as she would ever be.

The packing has become easier as we become more experienced travelers.  We loaded up and set out.  Our first day would take us to Amarillo.  Unfortunately a stifling heat wave had taken residence in Central Texas and it made for a hot drive.  We made our way to Sweetwater Texas and stopped at a park to allow to children to eat and play.  This did not last long as they quickly tired from the heat.  We then pressed on to our campsite in Palo Duro Canyon.  It was again hot, however a problem emerged.  Most heavy trailers are equipped with electric brakes to assist the tow vehicle in stopping such a heavy load.  The trailer probably weighs 7000 pounds loaded.  As we pulled into the Canyon the brake controller began to flash error messages that it was overloaded and detected a short circuit.  As we descended into the canyon, the trailer brakes failed completely and the Sequoia had to stop that tremendous weight coming down a 10% grade.  Fortunately the vehicle allows manual shifting of the transmission and thus I was able to slow the Endeavor down some with engine power.  With white knuckles I finally reached the bottom of the canyon and we could smell the unmistakeable burning smell of overheated brakes.  This would be a serious problem as our route involves many mountain.  I began to worry about potential serious repairs.  Smart phones are both a blessing and a curse.  Folks, get addicted to them but they sure come in handy in these situations.  I was able to search RV forums and find a troubleshooting list.  It was likely a frayed wire, bad ground, or a bad connection at the wire harness. I tried to forget about the problem and we went on a short family hike and did some rock shambling.  The kids were happy to do it as they had been cooped up all day.

After a very hot night sleeping in the trailer, we woke up and performed inspections.  I could not find any frayed wires.  I took Grant under the trailer and explained how the 12 volt battery system works and we removed and cleaned the ground wire.   We decided to set out and see if this fixed the problem.  The brakes worked for about 10 minutes and then stopped again.  It had to be the connection.  I diverted the Endeavor to an auto parts store where I obtained form electrical contact cleaner, dielectric grease, and sandpaper.  There was a nearby Wal mart and I dropped Amy to get some provisions while I set to work.  I removed the harness and looked closely, the once shiny electrical connections looked sad and worn, dark with oxidation.  I sprayed the cleaner and then set to work with the sandpaper, tearing it into little cleaning strips.  I peered into the connection and the shiny brass color of a healthy electrical connection was showing though.  I reconnected the harness and we set out again.  Success!  Everything worked.

A long and desolate drive through Northern New Mexico took us to Albuquerqe.  We found a nice park in the suburbs that had a swimming pool.  We went for a swim and made sanwhiches for the road.  The road Northwest of town took us to the Colorado border.  Almost immediately after crossing it as if there is a whole new land.  Rocks gave way to green lush fields with snow capped peaks in the background.  We made our way to the National Forest North of town where we had a wonderful spot near a lake.  As the children wind down for bed I sit and I absorb the peace and serenity here.  Another adventure begins.