Day 20

The long stretch begins.

We drove the first stretch for a long morning.  The mountains gave way to the scrubby hills of Southeastern Colorado and Northeastern New Mexico.  It is unbelievably hot.   The temperature rose to 92 degrees before noon.  The ride was bittersweet as we climbed over Raton pass.  This pass signifies leaving the mountains and the Journey home to Texas.  It will soon be over.

We headed down across New MExico and stopped at Capulin Volcano National MOnument.  It is an extinct volcano that is now a park and makes for a good stopping point.  We attended a Ranger Talk and hiked to the bottom of the volcano.  The kids got some nice Junior Ranger patches for their troubles.  It was very hot but a nice break from the drive.

We continued along the plains of North Texas and into the Amarillo campsite.  It is windy and dusty.  We get set up and the kids go for a swim at the campground pool.

Tomorrow is the final segment.

Day 19

July 4th, the pinnacle of American summer.

We usually try to do something fun for the 4th while traveling, whether it be a local parade or celebration at a historical site.  We did a little research before we arrived at the shady campground.  I got up early and packed the trailer to leave.  We found out that there was a July 4th celebration at Fort Fetterman in Douglas Wyoming.  Fort Fetterman is an Old West fort that was an important stop on the Pony Express as well as the Western Migration.  The celebration was free and even included a pancake breakfast.  We arrived on the grounds and were greeted by a woman dressed in period Pony Express costume on horseback.  we continued onto the grounds and got in line for breakfast.  The breakfast was quite good and was pancakes eggs and hamsteaks.  The children were ecstatic as they filled their bellies with the free pancakes.

Afterward we toured the grounds and did many interactive activities with the kids.  Wagon rides, period children's games, and educational discussions with reeneactors were the activities of the day.  It was interesting to see the faces of the local folks, they seemed to be farmer types with weathered faces and thick working hands.  All enjoying the 4th and history.   With smiles on their faces, the children reboarded the endeavor and we headed South to Colorado Springs.

The Holliday eased the usual city traffic and we made good time.  We arrived at the campground and got set up.  I went to get some bbq while Amy did one last load of laundry.  Afterward, we packed a picnic and headed to downtown Manitou Springs for fireworks.  We ate at a playground but the kids seemed more interested in playing.  Little Nate found a little girl he was having fun chasing.  There was also an old time arcade there with plenty of games and little rides I remember from childhood.  The type of rides that could never be made again because of lawyers and lawsuits.  The two youngest rode the electric horses and tractors with huge smiles and laughter.  We then treated them to ice cream and staked out a spot at the local park.   The ice cream was good but the firework display was nothing special.  We had taken a shuttle bus downtown but we decided to walk the mile back to the campground.  The children were tired and fell asleep easily with a bedtime story.

Day 18

Time to head home.

We got up bright and early and cooked a large breakfast.  The kids of course got up early as well, excited to play with their new friends and their cousins.  We performed the usual prep for the ship and I rechecked her systems and all seems fine.  After breakfast the Officers of the Endeavor and the Corps of Discovery visited for a while.  We decided to head down to the South park exit together.

We got underway and made the drive to the entrance where we would take a family I true in front of the Yellowstone sign.  I looked in horror at literally 2 miles of traffic waiting to get into the park.  Yes, it is a good tie to be headed South.  The cousins did not want to leave each other but a long driving day was ahead.  I chose a more Southern route toward Casper Wyoming, so that we could trace some of the route of the old wagon trains.  Our route would carry us along various portions of the California, Oregon, and Mormon trails.  A long scenic drive south out of the mountains took us to a tiny town in central Wyoming. The children were hungry for lunch and we really don't like to get fast food.  We noticed a little Thai shop in the middle of town.  Amy went in an ordered us lunch and struck up a conversation with the lady working.  She was from Thailand and was in the US for the summer to help her daughter with the restaurant.  She was very interested to hear of our travels.

After lunch we traveled along various points on the trails.  We decided to stop at a spot called Independence Rock.  This is a large granite monolith in the middle of the prairie.  Its significance was that if a Wagon train could reach this spot by July 4th, they would likely make it over the mountains before winter.   The settlers also scrawled names and messages into the rock that are still viewable today.  We stopped and began walking around the rock.  A gentleman walking around stopped us and said "be careful around that side, there is a mean badger that is chasing people around."  About that time, we heard a shriek as a lady and her husband came jogging around the side. Apparently, this badger had chased them snarling and growling.  Of course the children wanted to go and see the badger and have it chase them.  Of course I refused, being chased by an angry badger was not in the cards for me.  This predicament was a first.  They settled on climbing the rock.  I do not care much for heights anymore, but the children had no problem scrambling all the way to the top.

We loaded up and continued the hour drive into Casper.  The campground was supposed to be a quaint place made from an old fort on a river.  The reality was quite different however.  There were rows of permanent trailer dwellers, many flying confederate flags and staring.  Oops.  It was too late to continue on, so we dropped the trailer and I holed up in there.  I figure I will just sleep and get up early in the morning and leave.  Not ideal.

Day 17

We again slept in trying to kick this respiratory affliction.  Still coughing and hacking we decided to go for a shorter hike.  We stopped by Old Faithful and let the kids watch the famous geyser erupt.  While we waited, they also used the time to finish their Junior ranger booklets.  The geyser erupted slightly late and we joined the throngs of people trying to edit the parking lot.

We decided on a short hike up to a Lake, called Harlequin trail.  On the way, we stopped at a Ranger station and the kids turned in their books and received their badges.  They were pleased as their Ranger hats appear to be coated in badges from all over the country.  The hike wasn't bad at all, and we took the time to relax and enjoy the sights.  We headed back to the trail head and called it an early day, heading back to the campground after stopping to walk the boardwalk at one of the geothermal features.

We arrived early at camp, started a fire and made hot dogs.  The weather had cleared from days previous and it turned out to be a fantastic evening.  The children made friends with some kids at a neighboring camp and they played all evening.  I love to see kids play like I remember doing as a kid.  The cousins arrived back at camp and joined the fray. The relaxing evening was topped off with s'mores and campfire scary stories.

I realized why I have become so uncomfortable here.  The rat race has manifest itself here and it was not always this way here.  Just today, we have watched, people speeding and passing others on blind corners, moving no parking barricades to park, walking dogs off leash.  Basically the selfish self absorbed type behavior I flee to escape.  It saddened me.  Such greatness to behold here, but they do not, cannot see it.

Tomorrow we pull anchor and begin the journey home.

Day 16

The Officers of the Endeavor continue to suffer from declining health.

We all awoke late today as Amy and I were feeling worse and thought rest might help.  We took care of some chores and met up with the Corps of Discovery to conduct a days hike.  We decided upon a hike around the Canyon area of Yellowstone.  It is a huge Canyon area with a large Waterfall that is described as the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone.  We hiked along the rim at first.  Amy and I were feeling pretty rough.  The hacking cough has drained us of energy the past few days.  Our chests hurt and we experience coughing fits frequently.  Our stamina for the hike wasn't there.  The Endeavors crew broke off and took a different route back.  It was longer than expected and ridden with mosquitos but did pass through some interesting geothermal features.  The end of the trail was in a different spot than the vehicle so I left the others and hikes another mile to the car.  At this point the coughing got worse and I began to cough up some bloody sputum.  Whatever this affliction is, it seems to be nasty.  

Spent for the day, we decided to drive around looking for wildlife.  Of particular interest was the Lamar Valley in the Northeast part of the park.  Wolves can often be sighted here.  Scattered thunderstorms were present all day and I suspect this hampered our wildlife viewing efforts.  We saw no wolves or bears in this area.  Exhausted and I'll we headed back to the campsite.  Hopefully we turn the corner tomorrow.

Day 15

Weather in the mountains is a strange unpredictable thing.

We decided to get up early and make the drive down to the Grand Tetons.  Grand Teton National Park borders Yellowstone.  It contains an iconic group of mountain peaks and some great views. There is a particular hike we like to do when we are around this area called the Jenny Lake trail.  It is a great day hike with many different points to turn around depending on how long you want to hike.  A boat can even be taken part of the way if you wish.  The area however was under construction and the crowds have also seemed to make their way down there as well.

Since we were early, parking was no problem.  We found a spot and stopped by the visitor center to get Junior Ranger books.  Amy and I had been dealing with this chest cold and seems to have sapped us of some energy.  We walked the 2.2 mile to the far side of the lake.  Amy seemed to get sicker, began looking pale and I'll.  I suggested she take the boat back with our daughter and the baby.  I decided to continue on to a spot called inspiration point with the two oldest boys.  Together we formed an expeditionary force and continued on the steep trail to this area.  As we climbed the trail, a rolling thunderstorm bellowed in, dumping rain and lightning in the area.  Myself and the crew quickly found a large tree to seek shelter underneath.  I had two ponchos and we quickly covered the crew in them to keep them dry.  The steep trail is granite and quite slippery when wet.  We decided to press on since we were so close to our goal.  The crew showed no fear and performed exceptionally under the conditions.  One slippery rock could send one of us over the edge and tumbling to certain death.  One last switchback and we made it.  Inspiration point is a rocky cliff that overlooks the lake with the mountain range to your back. We stopped here for a while and ate in silence.  I looked back at the canyon and noticed a huge sheet of rain coming.  We quickly packed up and headed down.  Interestingly enough, Grant was wearing a shirt from Barbados.  A random gentleman on the trip noticed and asked him if he was "Bajan". He told them that my family was.  The gentleman, like myself, had parents from Barbados and we quickly exchanged pleasantries.  Small World.  We headed down to the boat dock and took the boat back across where we linked up with the rest of the crew.

We stopped at a Visitor Center on the way home for the children to finish their books.  The badges they earned were centennial special edition badges and made of wood.  We headed back to camp where I got dinner started and lit a fire.  Suddenly we heard the playful laughter and screams of the crew of the Corps of Discovery.  The crews joined together as only children can and laughed and played and had a generally good time.

Tomorrow I suspect we shall conduct a less strenuous hike as my cough and ill feelings seem to be getting worse.

Day 14

It appears Yellowstone has become more of an amusement park.  The true wilderness has died with the turn South

We let the children sleep in this morning as we figured they needed it.  Truthfully it was nice for us adults to sleep in as well.  We made the usual preparations to get the Endeavor underway.  The road to Yellowstone was short and followed the Gallatin river all the way to the city of West Yellowstone, which borders the park.  We decided that with the amount of laundry we had to do, we could find a laundromat and knock it out before we got into the park.  We found one just off the main drag.  Amy took the kids to a nearby park while I knocked out 5 loads of laundry.  With 4 kids, we sure travel heavy.  While that was going, I cleaned and swept the trailer.  I made the mistake of checking on the news while I waited.  I was bombarded with stories of a bombing of an airport in Turkey, and a mother who murdered her teenage daughters.  Mistake.  Perhaps I will turn North again after all.   I prefer the honesty of the wilderness.

We left the town and drove into the park.  I am not sure what I was expecting, as this is my eighth visit to Yellowstone, but the place is a zoo.  I do not remember this sort of crowding.  Immediately I am confronted with the behaviors of the rat race that I tried to escape.  Unsafe driving, tailgating, and throngs of people vying for parking spots.  We stopped at the Old Faithful visitor center for the children to get their Junior Ranger books.  They apparently charge for them here and the whole Old Faithful area was chaos.  Horns blaring, throngs of people loud and boisterous.  Amy and I discussed altering course for a new destination.  We both agreed we should have made the Left turn North.

We found our campsite among 480 others in the campground.  Luckily the family in the closest spot has many children, and ours seem to get along fine with them.  We ate chicken stew for supper and decided to take a drive in search of wildlife. I traveled to an area of the park that is usually good for that purpose.  Sightings of buffalo gave way to a rare sight.  A traffic jam directed our attention to a large grizzly bear slowly and purposely eating the carcass of a dead buffalo.  Despite the crowd, it was a pretty cool site to see.  Interesting how habituated the Bears have become that the crowd of people watching did not seem to bother it.  On the way back to the campsite, we out another good look at a black bear foraging for food along the road way.  Despite the Endeavor's Officers disdain for the spectacle Yellowstone has become, the crew seem to enjoy the wildlife sightings.

It has started to rain lightly, we will attempt a hike in the Tetons tomorrow.

Day 13

It saddened me some to leave Glacier.  Mostly, because I knew it marked the beginning of the end of the adventure, but also because it gave me a taste of that wild, that Wonderlust that always calls.  That pull away from traditional life and toward freedom.

Nonetheless, we got up early and prepared the Endeavor for the journey South.  Systems and fasteners, checked and all seemed sound.  We decided to stop at the Ranger station on the way out.  Harris had finished his Junior Ranger book, and Grant and Alex had finished a special Junior Ranger assignment that gave them a special badge for the centennial celebration of the National Park Service.  All were pleased with their accomplishments.

It was very slow going headed South to Missoula.  There is traffic like I have not seen before in Montana.  It was interesting to see various bumper stickers reading things like "Montana Native", or "Montana is full, I heard North Dakota is nice."  It seems the "discovery" of Montana by outsiders has the locals none too happy.  The traffic surely ads to the frustration.  I decided to stop at the Costco in Missoula to procure a generator.  I also got other various supplies for the trip.  Missoula seemed to suffer from the traffic affliction as well.  While I performed that task, I dropped the rest of the crew in down town Missoula.  There is a park with an old restored Carousel open for all to ride.  The children had been given tickets for a free ride at the campsite on the way up.  They were elated.  They could not stop talking about how much fun they had at the park. It's incredible how children can get so much joy from such simple things.

Amy drove the rest of the way, as I was tired and fell asleep in the Navigators chair.  We again, traveled through the rolling foothills of Montana.  We dialed up a Podcast we are fond of on NPR.  Story Corps.  It is the stories of otherwise normal people and their stories.  This episode featured a soldier who was the only surviving member of his Platoon, after a road side bomb struck in Iraq.  It was memorable because you could feel the anguish and guilt in his voice at being the survivor.  He discussed his draw toward suicide.  I cannot imagine such a hell, and I hope he is able to make sense of it all and press forward with his life.  It is a task easier said than done I am sure. We headed South along the Gallatin river in Montana and arrived at our campground.  It is a nice smaller campground on the banks of the Gallatin river.  There is some road noise and many mosquitos, but a relaxing spot nonetheless.  The kids bickered as they were tired from the day before. To our joy, they had an open site with electrical hookups.  The Endeavor could charge her battery banks and prepare for the next stop.  I will return the generator.  We ate supper and told campfire stories. The children are ready for bed indeed.

Tomorrow, the Endeavor plans to link with an Allied ship, piloted by Amy's brother and family, the Corps of Discovery.  The combined crew should have a world of a time in Yellowstone.